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A "Blow-ins" view of Balbriggan

The following was written in 2005.
Being a relative newcomer to Balbriggan, 10 years to be exact, my knowledge of the town is somewhat limited. Since settling here, my enthusiasm for the town has grown immensely. Nothing pleases me more than brining the dogs for a walk down Church street, past the Sunshine Home, beyond St Georges Church, under the railway and down by Seapoint by the Kings Strand. This is a mainly a stony beach that extends up to the Bower and beyond that to Barnageara and Skerries. Seapoint lane is undergoing redevelopment presently with a number of house been demolished. The harbour(1761) is the next point of call where apart from a few half sunken wrecks, its home to numerous fishing vessels. At the end of the harbour is the lighthouse with two commerative plaques in memory of Patrick Hanley who drowned near this spot in 1957 and Baron(George) Hamilton who was the driving force behind the building of the harbour. Still visible on the harbour wall are the repairs done caused by a violent storm in the mid seventies. The lighthouse now is somewhat different to photos of years gone, a dome is missing. Apparently in 1960, when it changed over to electric rather than naked flame, the dome and glass were no longer needed. It's a pity its was removed but there are tentative moves to have it replaced.

The front strand(Seabanks) is the main beach. It’s a natural inlet and is ideal for building sand castles, bathing and soaking up the sun. During the summer months a lifeguard is on duty when the appropriate flag is flying. Presumably the lifeguard station was formally a shelter for changing as there is an identical building beside it, obviously men's and Ladies. Continuing to walk on and the chimney of Deedes Templar, DoubleCrest, Healthex makes its presence felt. Originally gutted by the Black & Tans in sept 1920, the building was rebuilt and lasted till it was demolished in Oct 2003 to make way for future development A few yards further up the coast is the Martello tower built in 1800's to ward off any invasions by Napoleon. The early 19th century saw a considerable amount of activity along the coast of Fingal. Strong round towers were built by the military under the 'national defence Act of 1804'. Martello Towers are a curiosity to most people and their history is not widely known. The story begins on the island of Corsica on the 9th of September 1794. A British force attacked a French headland on cape Martello. The British military were so impressed by the defence that they built their own towers for the de fence of England and Ireland. The forts to be positioned about a quarter of a mile apart along the coast of Dublin. Each tower had it's own water reservoir and the walls were about eight feet thick.The interior was divided into three stories. The ground floor was used for holding ammunition, stores and provisions. The first floor acted as living quarters for the garrisons.

Just before you come to the Martello tower in a small park which was the site of the Old Coastguard Station. This was gutted in 1922 in the war of independence. Just below the Martello tower are the ruins of the Boathouses and also visible is the site where once stood a walkway out to an ideal diving spot. This was demolished by the council on safety grounds. Heading back brings you over the towns famous landmark, The Viaduct, was completed in 1844 as part of the Dublin to Drogheda line and was officially opened in March the same year. The viaduct is an ideal place for viewing the Harbour and up towards Drogheda and on a clear day the Mountains of Mourne are clearly visible. Next we head down under the Viaduct and we can see that some of the Arches weren't open as they are now but sealed on the harbour side and used to store coal. Cumiskeys Coal Yard was where the town car park is now, pictures of which can be seen on the photos page.


Heading up to the main street, divided into three, Dublin Street, Bridge street and Drogheda street, and our first place of interest is the bridge over the "Bracken" river. Here is a commerative plaque to Seamus Lawless and Sean Gibbons. They were shot near this spot by the "Black & Tans" in 1920. The Black & Tans were a regiment of the british army stationed at Gormonston (3 miles north)and were known for their ferocity. Heading in a northerly direction again and we meet the "Medical Centre". This was originally Derhams pub but was gutted by the Black & Tans in sept 1920. This pub is at the bottom of Clonard street and it was this street that was virtually destroyed in what was to become known as "The Sack of Balbriggan". Continuing along the main street, up the hill and we take a right onto "Railway street". Known locally as station street we can see the factory on both sides of the road, this was Smith & Co, 1780-1980. Jack Benton & Joe Curtis have written an account on this factory, click HERE to read it. Just before you come to the end of station street, you can still see where an enclosed walkway went from one factory to another. Click HERE


Our next point of interest is the station itself. A magnificent building build in 1844. A recent change to the station has been the building of a new wheelchair friendly lift. Click HERE. Up until this was built, no wheelchair users could use the station. As we leave the station and go right, we come to Loreto Convent. The newer, nearer part was built in the late 1980's after they demolished the church. That brings us more or less to the end of our tour of the town. We hope it gives you an understanding of the town and the places to check out if you visit. TH. April 2004

Tommy Monaghan,
Balbriggans very own playwrite, click HERE to view his CV.

The Balbriggan Crest.

Origin/Meaning:
The arms were granted in 1982.
The arms are divided into three sections by gold lines. The red centre section contains on top, two pipes crossed to symbolise the major town industry of Wavin Pipes while the water wheel at the bottom represents the energy source which helped to give Balbriggan its industrial base. The spindle on the left and the fish on the right on a green background represent the textile and fishing industries, also sources of wealth for Balbriggan.

The motto means People before Leaders.

 

 

Trevor Sargent on St Georges Church & School
Click Here to read Trevors history of the Church & School
Smith & Co (Smyco) Balbriggan.
Want to know more about this factory which produced Linen from 1780 to 1980. Read an indept article by Jack Benton & Joe Curtis. Click Here

Ardgillan Castle.

The residents of Balbriggan and Skerries sometimes have to be reminded on how lucky they are to live so close to this amenity. Ardgillan Castle was built by the Rev Robert Taylor in the year 1738. The surroundings consists of woodland and garden including the walled rose garden adjacent the castle. "Ard Choill" or High Wood covers an area of 194 acres and was originally known as "Prospect". more details click Here

The following extract is taken from Balbriggan Historical Society For a more detailed account please visit their web site.

A Short History of Balbriggan

The area around Balbriggan has almost certainly been populated since shortly after the first people arrived on these shores, but the town of Balbriggan is a relatively recent development. This town owes much to the largesse of the Hamilton family since the 18th century, and their willingness to invest in housing, industry and the development of the local harbour.

The population of the town and surrounding area remained relatively small having been effected by the famine and did not show significant growth until the late 1960s. Since then its continual expansion has been at a phenomenal rate.

Balbriggan 1641 - 1841
Unlike the neighbouring ancient manors of Balrothery, Balscadden and Bremore, the town of Balbriggan has a shorter almost meteoric history. Returned in the Civil Survey of 1656 as "The great farme of Balbriggan", belonging to Nicholas Barnewall of Turvey and as "The little farme of Balbriggin", belonging to Peter Barnewall of Tyrenure, Balbriggan was then no more than two townlands occupying 220 acres. The figures from the 1659 Census of the population reflect the contrast in size with the villages of Balrothery and Balscadden:

1659 Census

                     Irish     English    Total
Balbriggan:       26        4           30

Balrothery:       149      55          204

Balscadden:       167      23          190

Spelled variously as Ballybrygdyn, Ballybriggen, Balbriggen and Balbriggan the town's name is said by writer P.W. Joyce to be derived from "Baile Bhrecan: Brecan, a very usual personal name." Local tradition points to the Bracken stream as being a corruption of Breac-in (Small Trout) and a possible source of the town's placename. The present official spelling of Balbriggan is based on Baile - Brigh - In (The Town of the Small Hills). Balbriggan is indeed surrounded by several small hills such as Clonard Hill (Cluain Aird - High Meadow) and Bremore (Brigh - Mor: High Hill). Austin Cooper's description of the emerging town on the 9th June 1783 reads as follows: "Balbriggan is a small town situated in a small glin where the sea forms a little harbour - it is reckoned safe and is sheltered by a good pier. The town is resorted to in Summer time by several genteel people for the benefit of bathing. "

The Building of the Harbour 1761 - 1765
The Barnewall "dynasty" was replaced by the powerful Hamilton family in the early 18th century. Baron Hamilton, with the aid of Parliamentary grants supervised the erection of a fine harbour wall, or mole, of 600 feet in length, thus affording safe anchorage for large vessels. The little port of Balbriggan very quickly prospered and apart from the development of a local fishing fleet, a sizeable trade grew up in the port where large quantities of corn and timber were exported and imports of slates, coal, culm and rock salt were unloaded at the busy quayside. We are fortunate in having a first hand account of the building of the harbour wall and of the success of the growing fishing industry. This account is provided by a traveller called Arthur Young who toured Ireland in the years 1776 to 1778. He actually visited Balbriggan on 19th July 1776 and the following is a snippet from his observations: "Got to Baron Hamilton's at Hampton, near Balbriggen, by breakfast. His house is new built and stands agreeably by a fine shore ... the population increases very fast and the country in every respect improves amazingly .... The Baron carried me to Balbriggen, a little sea port of his, which owes it's being and care to his attention. It subsists by its fishing boats which he builds; has 23 of them, each carrying 7 men, who are not paid wages, but divide the produce of their fishery." The author also went into great detail concerning the means by which the harbour wall was erected and was much impressed by what he saw and heard. The harbour was improved by the erection of a lighthouse in 1769 which was originally illuminated by candle power. The building of a northern jetty between 1826 and 1829 completed the job.

To find out more go the Historical Web Site Click HERE